A pleasant half-hour can easily be spent soaking up the atmosphere on the steps of this Shiva temple, especially at dawn and dusk. In fact, the nine-stage ochre platform of the Maju Deval is probably the most popular meeting place in the city. The large, triple-roofed temple has erotic carvings on its roof struts and offers great views over the square and across the roofs of the city. Marigold sellers set up shop on the ground level.
The temple dates from 1690 and was built by the mother of Bhaktapur’s king Bhupatindra Malla. The temple has a Shiva lingam (phallic symbol) inside. From the steps you can watch the constant activity of fruit and vegetable hawkers, the comings and goings of taxis and rickshaws, and the flute and other souvenir sellers importuning tourists.
At the bottom of the temple stairway on the east side is a small white temple to Kama Deva, the Hindu god of love and desire. It was built in the Indian shikhara style, with a tall corn-cob-like spire.
