If you turn to the right at the junction before the Royal Botanical Gardens, you’ll reach a cluster of local restaurants, the Godavari Kunda – a sacred spring on the right-hand side of the road – and, on the left, a tank bordered by a neat line of Shaivite shrines. Every 12 years (there was one in 2015 and the next is in 2027) thousands of pilgrims come to the spring to bathe and gain spiritual merit. Next door is the large O Sal Choling Godavari Tibetan monastery, carrying some scars from the earthquake.