Kabuli Gate is where Khyber Bazaar becomes Qissa Khawani, the old 'Street of Storytellers'. Peshawar's most famous bazaar, there's little memory left of the traders and travellers that would gather here to swap tales; most of its teashops have given way to clothes and electrical shops. To the left round the corner, brass and copperware are for sale in what used to be the old bird market. Soon the aroma of tea and spice hints of a pocket of traders carrying on another ancient enterprise.