This maeul (village) – in the middle of modern Jeonju – has more than 800 hanok, one of the largest such concentrations in the country. Most of them now contain guesthouses, galleries, restaurants, teahouses and boutiques (rather than homes). Yes, it's touristy, but wandering the cobblestone lanes is still an enchanting experience, especially in the early morning or evening hours.
Some places in the village host workshops (making traditional paper or alcohol, for example). These usually require advance reservations and a minimum of two people; ask at a tourist information centre.