Getting here is not easy, but your journey to this Joseon-dynasty village will be rewarded with an up-close, intimate look at superb traditional architecture in a decidedly noncommercial setting. Designated as a cultural-preservation area, the entire village (replete with stone walls, straw-thatched roofs and green gardens) is a photographer’s dream. Set aside a half-day to admire the 180 or so houses typical of the yangban class – a largely hereditary class based on scholarship and official position.
Most of the homes here are still lived in, so you need to observe the usual courtesies when looking around; some of the larger mansions stand empty and are open to the public. There are descriptive plaques with English explanations outside some of the more important structures. If buildings are locked, you may be able to ask for a key nearby. There are no entry fees to any of the buildings.
When it’s time for a break, try one of the area teashops, like Uhyangdaok , which is in a rustic building with simple treats such as green tea, wine and light meals. No English is spoken here but the owner goes to much effort to ease communication. If you want to stay the night, there are two small ondol rooms (₩35,000) for rent. Early breakfast is possible but you need to ask ahead of time.
From Gyeongju, buses 200, 201, 202, 203 and 206 will get you to within 1.5km of Yangdong. From the bus stop, follow the train line and then go under it. There’s only one road into the village, about a 30-minute walk.
