This Unesco World Heritage–listed temple should be on every visitor’s not-to-be-missed list. As well as being one of Korea’s most significant temples, Haein-sa is also one of the most beautiful. Part of its beauty lies in the natural setting of mixed deciduous and coniferous forest surrounded by high mountain peaks and rushing streams. At prayer times (3.30am, 10am and 6.30pm) the place can feel otherworldly.
Haein-sa holds 81,258 woodblock scriptures, making it one of the largest Buddhist libraries of its kind.
Known as the Tripitaka Koreana, the blocks are housed in four buildings at the temple’s upper reaches, complete with simple but effective ventilation to prevent deterioration. Although the buildings are normally locked, the blocks are easily visible through slatted windows.
The main hall, Daegwangjeon, was burnt down in the Japanese invasion of 1592 and again (accidentally) in 1817, though miraculously the Tripitaka survived. It escaped a third time, during the Korean War, when a South Korean pilot working for the Allied forces refused to allow them to bomb it.
The recently refurbished Haein-sa Museum showcases temple treasures including replicas of the scriptures, Buddhist art and other artefacts. It is a short walk from the main road, while the temple itself is a further kilometre up the hillside.
Hikers will want to challenge Gaya-san (1430m), the main peak in the national park, and a pretty one, though the 1100m stretch up from Haein-sa is known to be tough.
