Byeonsan-bando is Korea's only national park with both mountains and sea. During the summer months, sandy Byeonsan Beach , backed by pines, and Gyeokpo Beach , with its dramatic cliffs and caves, are the top draws. From Gyeokpo, ferries depart for the island of Wido , which has a sandy beach. Year-round there is hiking in the peaks that frame the temple Naeso-sa .
Originally built in 633 and last renovated in the 19th century, Naeso-sa has a weathered elegance. Don't miss the lattice work on the doors of the main hall, and the painted ceiling with musical instruments, flowers and dragons among the motifs. Naeso-sa has an English-language templestay (weekday/weekends ₩40,000/60,000) with hiking on the weekends.
From the temple you can hike up the unpaved road to the hermitage Cheongnyeon-am (청련암; 20 minutes) for sea views; another 15 minutes brings you to the ridge where you turn left for Gwaneum-bong. From the peak follow the path, which goes up and down and over rocks for an hour until you reach Jikso Pokpo (직소폭포), a 30m-high waterfall with a large pool. For a more challenging hike head up Nakjodae , which is famous for its sunset views.
There's a tourist village at Gyeokpo Beach, with motels and splashier resorts. On Wido, every house in the little fishing village of Jinli is a minbak (private home with rooms for rent) or restaurant.
