Heuksando, on the way to Hongdo, is the larger, more populated and more accessible of the two islands. Views from its peaks show why Dadohae Haesang means ‘marine archipelago’. Fishing villages are linked by trails, but walking around the island takes around nine hours. Fortunately, local buses (₩1200, hourly) circle most of the island – a recommended trip is up the Bonghwa-dae peak, on the north coast hill, Sangnasan.
Cycling is also a fun way to get around; look for shops offering mountain bikes for hire (₩20,000 per day) near the ferry terminal.
The largest village, Yeri , formerly a whaling centre, is where ferries dock and is home to several basic accommodation options of minbak and yeogwan . Seafood restaurants are plentiful but prices, ranging from ₩10,000 to ₩60,000, are higher than the mainland.
