High on the slopes of Naksan is one of the city's old daldongnae (literally ‘moon village’) where refugees lived in shacks after the Korean War. Sixty years later it has morphed into a tourism hotspot thanks to a growing collection of quirky sculptures and imaginative murals on walls along the village's steep stairways and alleys. It’s a great area for casual wandering, but if you drop by the Lock Museum you can pick up an English map to the village.
The euphemistic name daldongnae alludes to the fact that residents had a great view of the moon from their hovels high on the hillside. There are still wonderful views of the city but try to come early in the day – and certainly avoid weekends – unless you like being surrounded by mobs of selfie-stick toting tourists.