Dangling off a rocky crag 16km northwest of Tangalla and nestled away among a green forest of coconut trees are the peaceful rock temples of Mulkirigala. Clamber in a sweat up the many steps and you’ll encounter a series of seven cleft-like caves on five different terraced levels. You'll discover a number of large reclining Buddha statues interspersed with smaller sitting and standing figures.
Vying with these for your attention are some fantastical wall paintings depicting sinners pleasuring themselves with forbidden fruit on Earth and then paying for it with an afterlife of eternal torture – apparently it was worth it! Further on up, and perched on top of the rock some 206m from the base, is a small dagoba with fine views over the surrounding country.
Temples, in some form or another, have been located here for over 2000 years but the current incarnation, and their paintings, date from the 18th century. Nearby is a Buddhist school for young monks.
Pali manuscripts found in the monastic library here by a British official in 1826 were used for the first translation of the Mahavamsa (Great Chronicle), which unlocked Sri Lanka’s early history for Europeans. For much more info on the site, see the website www.srilankaview.com/mulkirigala_temple.htm.
Mulkirigala can be reached by bus from Tangalla via either Beliatta or Wiraketiya. (Depending on the departures, it might be quicker to go via Wiraketiya than to wait for the Beliatta bus.) A three-wheeler from Tangalla costs about Rs 2000 for a return trip.
