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Kuttam Pokuna (Twin Ponds)
These swimming-pool-like ponds were likely used by monks from the monastery attached to Abhayagiri Dagoba. Water entered the larger pond through the mouth of a makara (mythical multispecies beast) and then flowed to the smaller pond through an underground pipe. Note the five-headed
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Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara
It’s believed Buddha visited the site of this temple on his third visit to Sri Lanka. Suitably grand and labyrinthine, it has a dramatic past. The original temple was destroyed by Indian invaders, restored and destroyed again by the Portuguese in the 16th century. The Dutch restore
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Cinnamon Gardens
About 5km south of Fort and 2km inland, Cinnamon Gardens is Colombo’s ritziest address. A century ago it was covered in cinnamon plantations. Today it contains elegant tree-lined streets and the posh mansions of the wealthy and powerful, as well as the city’s biggest park, several
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Lipton’s Seat
Near the Dambatenne tea factory, the Lipton’s Seat lookout rivals the views from World’s End (and it’s free). The Scottish tea baron Sir Thomas Lipton used to survey his burgeoning empire from here.Take the signed narrow paved road from the tea factory and climb about 7km through l
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Kantarodai Ruins
At the Chunnakam bus stand grab a three-wheeler for the 3km squiggle of lanes leading west to the puzzling Kantarodai Ruins (Purana Rajamaha Vihara). Discovered in 1916 in a palmyra patch the size of a modest garden, some two-dozen pudding-shaped little dagobas, 1m to 2m in height,
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Fort
During the European era Fort was indeed a fort, surrounded by the sea on two sides and a moat on the landward sides. Today it’s a curious mix of brash modern structures, such as the World Trade Center, and venerable red-brick institutions from the Colonial-era, such as Cargills and
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Yala East National Park & Kumana Reserve
Even in good times this 18,149-hectare park was not frequently visited. For the visitor, the result was a less ‘zoolike’ experience. However, with fewer staff to prevent poaching, the range and density of animals were also less.The best-known feature is the 200-hectare Kumana bird
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Moonstone
A ruined 9th-century school for monks northwest of the Abhayagiri Dagoba is notable for having the finest carved moonstone in Sri Lanka; see how many species of animals you can find in its elaborate carvings. This is a peaceful wooded area full of butterflies, and makes a good plac
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Koggala Lake
Next to the road, Koggala Lake is alive with birdlife and dotted with islands, one of which features a Buddhist temple that attracts many visitors on poya (full moon) days and another that contains an interesting cinnamon plantation. You can take a 90-minute boat tour of the lake a
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Anuradhapura Ruins
While it’s not quite as grandiose as Burma’s Bagan or as mysterious as Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, the ruins of Anuradhapura remain one of South Asia’s most electrifying sights. The sprawling complex contains a rich collection of archaeological and architectural wonders: enormous dagoba
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Abhayagiri Museum
The Chinese-funded Abhayagiri Museum, just south of the Abhayagiri Dagoba, commemorates the 5th-century visit of Chinese Buddhist monk Faxian to Anuradhapura. Faxian spent some time living at the Abhayagiri monastery translating Buddhist texts, which he later brought back to China.
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Brazen Palace
So called because it once had a bronze roof, the ruins of the Brazen Palace stand close to the bodhi tree. The remains of 1600 columns are all that is left of this huge palace, said to have had nine storeys and accommodation for 1000 monks and attendants.It was originally built by
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Bambarakanda Falls
About 14km towards Haputale, near Kalupahana, are the Bambarakanda Falls. Ask the bus driver to let you off at Kalupahana Junction. From the main road it’s another Rs 500 by three-wheeler up a barely-there track. For a return ride with an hour wait its Rs 800. From the town centre
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Pettah Markets
The concentrated and manic commerce of Pettah is concentrated even further in its markets. The one not to miss is the Federation of Self Employees Market , which stretches along 5th Cross St and is a hive of household goods and food. Admire the artful displays of fruit and veg, lik
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Embekka Devale
Dedicated to the worship of the Hindu deity Mahasen, this beautiful temple with its finely carved wooden pillars depicting swans, eagles, wrestling men and dancing women, was constructed in the 14th century. The best carvings are in the so-called drummers hall. To get here by publi
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Lovers Leap
From the Pedro Tea Estate , take a very enjoyable 5km (round-trip) walk to Lovers Leap, an impressive waterfall. From the tea factory, cross the main road and follow the signs to the tea manager’s bungalow along the dirt road. At the first crossroads go left and at the the three-wa
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Maha Saman Devale
The Maha Saman Devale, 4km west of the city, is an architectural treasure well worth visiting. Perched on a small hill, it has a handsome series of broad courtyards and multiroofed, whitewashed pavilions in the Kandyan style. Originally built in the 13th century, the temple was des
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Puliyanthivu
Puliyanthivu is pleasantly relaxed, and colonial edifices like St Michael’s College and the sturdy 1838 Methodist Church are understated and charming. Of the dozens of churches, the most eye-catching are the vaguely Mexican, earth-toned St Anthony’s and the grand, turquoise St Mary
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Royal Palace
The Royal Palace constructed by Parakramabahu was a magnificent structure measuring 31m by 13m, and is said to have had seven storeys. Today its crumbling remains look like giant cavity-ravaged molars.The 3m-thick walls have holes to receive the floor beams for two higher floors; h
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Hospital
A ruined hospital and the remains of a quincunx of buildings, laid out like the five dots on a die, flank the roadway before the base of the steps to the temple complex. The hospital consisted of a number of cells. A bat oruwa (large stone trough) sits among the ruins. The interior
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