This recreation area is truly a park for all seasons and all people. The first section has paved or cobbled paths, scenic pavilions and short walks to a number of gorgeous waterfalls. Once you get past this, however, you're on natural trails that climb for hours through sweet-smelling cedar forests.
The main trail starts up a short incline to the right of the toilets at the end of the paved route to Manyueyuan Waterfall. There are many side branches but the main route connects Manyueyuan with Dongyanshan Forest Recreation Area . However, there is no public transport to and from Dongyanshan, so if you walk there you must walk back. It's about a four-hour hike one-way.
Two very worthy diversions on the main trail include up to Beichatianshan (北插天山, North Sky-Piercing Mountain; elevation 1727m), the highest peak in the north, and further afield to a stand of giant ancient cedars (神木, shénmù).
To Beichatianshan, take the main trail to its highest point and then turn left, following the English signs. It's a long day hike to the summit and back (expect 10 to 12 hours), so many people make it an overnight trip. There's a wild campground near the base, beside a rushing stream.
The trail down to the old cedars follows the same path as to the base of Beichatianshan and then drops down a side trail, but this is not clearly marked in English. Get a copy of Richard Saunders' Taipei Escapes 2 for directions, or follow another hiking group.
Autumn is a nice time to visit the park, as the gum and soap-nut trees are changing colours. Fireflies come out in the spring and summer, and you can often spot monkeys and barking deer further into the park. Be aware that the park has its own microclimate and, while it may be sunny and dry in Taipei, it could be cool and wet here.
Public transport here is limited and complicated. First take the MRT to Yongning MRT station and outside Exit 1 catch bus 916 or a taxi to Sansia's Taipei Bus Company on Dayong Rd (this is the bus's final stop). From there catch bus 807 (NT$45). Buses leave weekdays at 7am, 9.30am and noon, and weekends at 6am, 8.30am and 11am and should go all the way to Manyueyuan parking lot (show the driver the characters so he is clear where you are going). If the bus doesn't go all the way to the park, it will drop you off at Honeybee World (蜜蜂世界) about 30 to 40 minutes' walk from the park entrance. If you can get a few people together, consider taking a taxi (NT$500) from Yongning MRT station directly to the park.
You can also hitch a ride back to town, though there are always potential risks when getting into a vehicle with strangers. The last bus leaves the parking lot at 3.50pm on weekdays and 6.10pm on weekends (call the Taipei Bus Company to confirm).
