The old town is a gently intriguing maze of lanes, with interesting houses often tantalisingly hidden from view behind straw-and-wattle plastered walls. Access is via Krupskoe or Tursunzoda streets heading west from 102 or 98 Lenin respectively, either side of the photogenic Hazrat-i-Shah Mosque . Walking along Krupskoe for around 10 minutes you'll spot the 1910 Hauz-i-Sangin mosque to the right. Peep in to see its attractively painted ceilings. Backtrack one block, then walk south past a vast unfinished new mosque site, then left on Tursunzoda to find the Abdullatif Sultan Medressa , centrepiece of a working Islamic school whose eye-catching Timurid architecture gives it its nickname Blue Dome . Walking another five minutes west brings you to a major road along which marshrutka 3a links between the bazaar and Chor Gumbaz.