The city's grassy, flat-topped former fortress hill rises northeast of the centre. Stormed by Alexander the Great in 329 BC and Arabs in 772AD, only minimal mud-wall traces of the original remain. These, however, have been grandly augmented since 2002 by a blue-domed brick entry gateway, built for Istaravshan’s 2500th anniversary celebrations. Though quickly becoming dilapidated, it looks great from afar and clear-day views show off the city's mountain horizon to great advantage. Access is from the first traffic lights north of Sadbargi hotel.
