A long cliff named Pha Taem is the centrepiece of this awesome but unheralded park. From the top you get a bird's-eye view across the Mekong into Laos and down below a trail passes prehistoric rock paintings dating to at least 1000 BC. Mural subjects include Ъlah bèuk (giant Mekong catfish), elephants, human hands, geometric designs and fish traps that look much like the huge ones still used today. The second viewing platform fronts the most impressive batch.
Unfortunately the clearing of the path for viewing the paintings has exposed the rock to the elements, resulting in some fading of the images over the years since the park was established, but they're still impressive. A visitor centre here contains exhibits pertaining to the paintings and local ecology.
North of the cliff is Nam Tok Soi Sawan , a 25m-tall waterfall flowing from June to December, the same period as all the park's waterfalls. It's a 19km drive from the visitor centre and then a 500m walk, or you can hike (with a ranger) for about 15km along the top of the cliff if you arrange it in advance. What the park calls Thailand's largest flower field (blooming November to February) lies near the falls.
The northern half of the park holds more waterfalls, ancient art and wonderful views. Pha Cha Na Dai cliff serves Thailand's first sunrise view (Pha Taem is about one minute behind and has the first sunset view), and amazing Nam Tok Saeng Chan waterfall flows through a hole cut naturally into the overhanging rock. Scattered across the 340-sq-km park are many oddly eroded rocks, including four sites known as Sao Chaliang , which are mushroom-shaped stone formations similar to those found in Mukdahan's Phu Pha Thoep National Park.
Pha Taem has campsites and five bungalows and vendors sell snacks and fast food until about sunset. There are also a collection of 'resorts' around the entrance to the park. The pick of the bunch is Pha Taem & Kaeng Phisamai Resort , which has a great location right on the riverfront and spectacular views of the cliffs of Laos, as well as ponies and goats.
Pha Taem is 18km from Khong Jiam along Rte 2112. There's no public transport, so the best way to get there is to hire a túk-túk in Khong Jiam (600B).
