Thong Pha Phum National Park, near the end of ear-popping Hwy 3272, crosses a serrated mountain range along the Myanmar border and is one of the most beautiful but least-known places in Thailand. It bills itself as the 'Land of Fog and Freezing Rainforest', which in travellers terms means waking up early to see the cold-season fog filling the valleys and bringing warm clothes.
It's best known among foreign travellers for its tree-top accommodation . These 6m-to-10m-tall 'Tarzan' rooms are quite rustic, with electricity only in the early evening and roofs that tend to leak when it rains, but the views are superb. The rooms down on solid ground are in better shape. There's also a campground; tent hire costs 270B.
The park is wildlife rich, and while you won't likely spot elephants, tigers or bears, marbled cats, palm civets, serow (Asian mountain goats) and Fea's muntjac often wander through the visitor centre/lodging area. You'll surely meet Wan Waew, the wild-but-tame great hornbill.
Thais know the park for the ranger-led overnight treks (16km round trip) to Chang Pheuk mountain, through grassland much of the way, offering 360-degree views over Myanmar. It's possible from October to January and costs 1200B for up to 10 trekkers. Porters are available. People rarely trek elsewhere, but rangers can lead you through the forest to various waterfalls and viewpoints.
You can drive to within 300m of Jokkadin Waterfall , which falls 30m with force. It's 2km southwest of the visitor centre then 3km down a steep side road.
The latter half of the 62km ride from Thong Pha Phum is along one of Thailand's most remote and winding roads. It's paved, but rough in many spots. Yellow sŏrng·tăa·ou to E-Thong pass the visitor centre.
