To discover what Ko Chang was like before the tourists came, visit Ban Salak Phet, in the far southeastern corner. This sleepy community is full of fishing boats and yawning dogs who stretch out on the roadside; it also provides access to some good treks.
Most visitors come for the seafood restaurants or to cruise the lonely byways for a secluded beach. Beyond the commercial heart of the village is Ao Salak Phet , a beautiful blue bay serenely guarded by humpbacked islands.