The last of the four main squares to be laid out in Habana Vieja, Plaza Vieja (Old Square, bounded by Calles Mercaderes, San Ignacio, Brasil, and Muralla) originally hosted a covered market. It is surrounded by mansions and apartment blocks where in colonial times residents looked down on executions and bullfights.
Plaza Vieja at night. Photo © Christopher P. Baker.
Back on the plaza, cool off with a chilled beer brewed on-site in the Factoría de Plaza Vieja.Last century the square sank into disrepair. Today it is in the final stages of restoration. Even the white Carrara marble fountain—an exact replica of the original by Italian sculptor Giorgio Massari—has reappeared. Until recently, most buildings housed tenement apartments; tenants have moved out as the buildings have metamorphosed into boutiques, restaurants, museums, and luxury apartments for foreign residents.Various modern sculptures grace the park, including, at the southeast corner, a bronze figure of a bald naked woman riding a rooster, by Roberto Fabelo.
The tallest building is the Edificio Gómez Villa, on the northeast corner. Take the elevator to the top for views over the plaza and to visit the Cámara Oscura (daily 9am-5:30pm, CUC2). The optical reflection camera revolves 360 degrees, projecting a real-time picture of Havana at 30 times the magnification onto a two-meter-wide parabola housed in a completely darkened room.
The shaded arcade along the plaza’s east side leads past the Casa de Juan Rico de Mata, today the headquarters of Fototeca (Mercaderes #307, tel. 07/862-2530, Tues.-Sat. 10am-5pm), the state-run agency that promotes the work of Cuban photographers. It hosts photo exhibitions. Note the ceramic wall mural designed by Amelia Peláez.
Next door, the Planetario Habana (Mercaderes #309, tel. 07/864-9544, shows Wed.-Sat. 10am, 11am, 12:30pm, and 3:30pm, Sun. 10am and 11am; CUC10 adults, children below 12 free) delights visitors with its high-tech interactive exhibitions on space science and technology. A scale model of the solar system spirals around the sun, which serves as a 66-seat theater.
The old Palacio Vienna Hotel (also called the Palacio Cueto), on the southeast corner of Plaza Vieja, is a phenomenal piece of Gaudí-esque art nouveau architecture dating from 1906. It is being restored as a deluxe hotel.
On the southeast corner, the Casa de Marqués de Prado Amero today houses the Museo de Naipes (Museum of Playing Cards, Muralla #101, tel. 07/860-1534, Tues.-Sat. 9:30am-5pm, Sun. 9am-2:30pm, entrance by donation), displaying playing cards through the ages.
The 18th-century Casa de los Condes de Jaruco (House of the Counts of Jaruco, Muralla #107), or “La Casona,” on the southeast corner, was built between 1733 and 1737 by the father of the future Count of Jaruco and is highlighted by mammoth doors opening into a cavernous courtyard surrounded by lofty archways festooned with hanging vines. It hosts offices of the Fondo Cubano de Bienes Culturales (Cultural Property Fund, tel. 07/860-8577). Art galleries occupy downstairs (Tues.-Sat. 9am-5pm).
Plaza de Catedral and Vicinity
On the plaza’s southwest corner, cross San Ignacio and follow Muralla half a block to the Tienda El Soldadito de Plomo (Muralla #164, Mon.-Fri. 9am-6pm, Sat. 9am-1:30pm), selling miniature soldiers made of lead! A large glass window lets you watch artists painting the pieces.
Back on the plaza, cool off with a chilled beer brewed on-site in the Factoría de Plaza Vieja (San Ignacio #364, tel. 07/866-4453, daily 11am-1am), in the former Casa del Conde de Casa Lombillo. The copper stills are displayed in the main bar, where a 1913 Ford delivery truck now sits and artworks by such famous Cuban artists as Kcho and Nelson Domínguez are displayed.
The Casa del Conde de San Estéban de Cañongo (San Ignacio #356, tel. 07/868-3561, Mon.-Fri. 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat. 9:30am-1pm) is today a cultural center. Adjoining, on the northwest corner of the plaza, is the Casa de las Hermanas Cárdenas, housing the Centro de Desarollo de Artes Visuales (San Ignacio #352, tel. 07/862-2611, Tues.-Sat. 10am-6pm). The inner courtyard is dominated by an intriguing sculpture by Alfredo Sosabravo. Art education classes are given on the second floor. The top story has an art gallery.
Well worth the side trip is Hotel Raquel (San Ignacio, esq. Amargura, tel. 07/860-8280), one block north of the plaza. This restored hotel is an art deco and neoclassical jewel.
Excerpted from the First Edition of Moon Havana.
