The most moving ruins are about 1.5km up the hill from the Puerta las Delicias (eastern) gate, and accessible by road. Cafetal Buenavista is Cuba’s oldest (now partially restored) coffee plantation, built in 1801 by French refugees from Haiti. The huge tajona (grindstone) out the back once extracted coffee beans from their shells. Next, the beans were sun-dried on huge platforms. Ruins of the quarters of some of the 126 slaves held here can be seen alongside the driers.
The attic of the master’s house (now a restaurant) was used to store the beans until they could be carried down to the port of Mariel by mule. There are decent views from here, best appreciated on the Sendero las Delicias hike which incorporates the cafetal .
