Visiting the Reserva Antropológica El Pomier is like reading a history book written in stone. There are 57 limestone caves in the area just 10km north of central San Cristobal, five of which (containing almost 600 paintings) are open to the public. The caves contain thousands of drawings and carvings that constitute the most extensive example of prehistoric art yet discovered in the Caribbean, including works by Igneri and Caribs as well as the Taínos. The faded drawings, painted with a mix of charcoal and the fat from manatees, depict birds, fish and other animals, as well as figures that may be deities. Relatively little is known about Hispaniola’s earliest inhabitants, though the paintings here, believed to be as much as 2000 years old, provide some tantalizing clues. The principal cave was first discovered in 1851 by Sir Robert Schomburgk, who left his name and that of his companions on the wall. Unfortunately, the caves seem to be consistently closed for renovations; until recently they were also closed as a safety precaution because of nearby explosives blasting, part of a marble-mining operation. Local guides have fought to protect the site, though its future remains uncertain still to this day.
