One of the most impressive historical sights in the central highlands, Marshall’s Pen Great House has a story that manages to encapsulate the sweep of Jamaican history from Taíno times through colonialism to abolition, independence and the modern day. Also, it’s a great spot to watch birds.
Taíno people once inhabited this property, and archaeological digs still turn up their artifacts. The stone-and-timber Great House itself, built in 1795, dates back to the first British Provost General of Jamaica. Throughout its history the home has been a coffee plantation and cattle-breeding property (hence Marshall’s ‘Pen’). Today the 120-hectare grounds are owned by Jamaica’s leading ornithologist, Ann Haynes-Sutton, an environmental scientist.
The exterior of the building, all cut-stone and Spanish windows surrounded by landscaped gardens, is beautiful. The interior is equally arresting, a honeycomb of wood-paneled rooms brimming with antiques, leather-bound books, Taíno artifacts, historical and original artwork and lots of other museum-quality pieces, many from Japan and China (this may be the best collection of Asian art on the island). You can tour the mini-museum by appointment only.
Marshall’s Pen is splendid for bird-watching: more than 100 species have been recorded here, including 25 of the 27 species endemic to Jamaica. Organized bird-watching trips often stay here. If you would like to visit, phone ahead first.
To get to the property, take Oriole Close off Winston Jones Hwy (A2), about 5km northwest of the town center (there’s a sign for ‘Somerset Quarries’ at the junction). Turn left on Nightingale Dr and then, after about 100m, right on Mike Town Rd; the estate entrance – an unmarked stone gateway – is about 400m further on the right. Take insect repellent.
