You can smell the yeasty odor of molasses wafting from the Appleton Sugar Estate and Rum Factory well before you reach it, 1km northeast of Maggotty in the middle of the Siloah Valley. This is the largest and oldest distillery in Jamaica: the factory has been blending rums since 1749. The factory tour explains how molasses is extracted from sugarcane, then fermented, distilled and aged to produce the Caribbean’s own rocket fuel, which you can taste in the John Wray Tavern.
Around 17 varieties – including the lethal Overproof – are available for sampling. Unsurprisingly, the well-stocked gift shop does brisk business with visitors whose inhibitions have understandably been lowered over the course of the tour (and by the way, you get a complimentary bottle of the stuff at the end of the tour, so don’t get too soused!).
Every tour company in Jamaica can get you onto one of the busloads of tourists that truck to and from (the ‘from’ part is pretty fun after 17 varieties of rum) the Appleton estate. Otherwise, it’s easiest to get here from Maggotty; the factory is 1km east, and taxis will take you there and back for around J$500.