For years most visitors to Puerto Rico blew right past the town of Manatí on their way west from San Juan to attractions in Arecibo or the west coast, but the medical tourism boom has changed all that. Manatí is now a top destination for Americans seeking medical procedures, ranging from orthopedic surgery to cancer treatments at a cost of up to 60-80 percent less than they’d pay back home. The city is home to several modern, highly rated health facilities including HeathSouth Rehabilitation Center, Doctors’ Center Hospital, and Manatí Medical Center, which has the island’s only Neuroscience Institute.
North Coast
Manatí is now a top destination for Americans seeking medical procedures, ranging from orthopedic surgery to cancer treatments at a cost of up to 60-80 percent less than they’d pay back home.The town of Manatí proper isn’t much of a draw, but north of town along the coast is a lovely wonderland of rolling green hills and delightful beaches ideal for swimming and surfing. The thick vegetation and elevation make it a cool enclave for the fabulous new homes and condos that have cropped up here. Once known for their grand sugar plantations and haciendas, Manatí and Barceloneta’s economies now revolve around pharmaceutical manufacturing and pineapple farms. Barceloneta is notable as the starting point for a spectacular scenic drive to Arecibo and as home to the Bosque Estatal de Cambalache, a small forest popular for its wooded mountain-bike trails.A scenic drive from Barceloneta to Arecibo is one excellent reason to venture off Highway 22. This 10-mile stretch along Carretera 684 north and Carretera 681 is like Puerto Rico’s own little version of California’s Pacific Coast Highway, rich in gorgeous views of the ocean with lots of spots to pull over and go for a swim. There’s also a great surfing point break at Machuca’s Garden at La Boca off Carretera 684.
Cueva del Indio is just one of the sights you can see along Carretera 681 on the way from Barceloneta to Arecibo, in Puerto Rico. Photo © Jaime Olmo, licensed Creative Commons Attribution.
Today, Hacienda La Esperanza (Carr. 616, Manatí, 787/854-2679, Fri., Sun., and holidays 8am-3pm, free) is a lovely, quiet natural preserve, but in the late 19th century it was one of the biggest, richest sugar plantations in Puerto Rico. In addition to the manor house, the sugar mill, and an ornate 1861 steam engine, the property encompasses more than 2,000 acres of karst formations. In addition, recent excavations have revealed that it was once occupied by indigenous people. A batey (a pre-Columbian ceremonial ball park), four plazas, a burial ground, and petroglyphs have been discovered. Although visitors are welcome to enjoy the grounds, the structures and archaeological sites are closed to the public while the Historic Conservation of Puerto Rico works to preserve the area.
If you’re anywhere near Manatí, don’t pass by without stopping at Playa Mar Chiquita (end of Carr. 648, off of Carr. 685, Manatí), an enchanting wonderland of natural beauty. Tucked down in the base of a wooded cliff is a perfectly formed natural pool almost completely enclosed by two long reaches of rocky coral that embrace a pristine crescent of sandy beach and crystal-clear water ideal for taking a dip.
The formation of Playa Mar Chiquita is so picture-perfect that a legend has grown up around it to explain its creation. As the story goes, a beautiful woman went to Mar Chiquita and fell into the ocean. She began to drown, but then the sea opened up and the waves washed her ashore. A few days later she returned to Mar Chiquita and was surprised to discover that the lovely fan-shaped pool had formed.
Playa Mar Chiquita in Manatí. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.
There’s more to Playa Mar Chiquita than its baby-safe beach, though. The mountain base contains an intricate system of caves, where the adventurous can discover stalagmites and stalactites, as well as petroglyphs left behind by indigenous people. Mangrove trees and sea grapes grow thick and low throughout the area, creating their own cave-like nooks where lovers park for a rendezvous. Crumbling ruins of small buildings and walls add a bewitching quality. And set high into a cliff wall is a tiny shrine containing a likeness of the Virgin Mary, who looks down on all the mysterious beauty below.
Playa Los Tubos (Carr. 686, Manatí) is an excellent wilderness beach best for swimming in the summer and surfing in the winter (Nov.-Mar.), when the hollow swells can get up to 16 feet or more. Thanks to powerful waves and easy access, some of the best surfing in Puerto Rico can be found here. It’s rarely very crowded, and you can drive right down to the water. Just watch out for the sharp rocky bottom and sea urchins. Los Tubos is not for the inexperienced surfer. Do not leave valuables visible inside your car. This is a popular spot for smash and grab thieves.
Mountain-bike enthusiasts will want to check out Bosque Estatal de Cambalache (Carr. 682, km 6.3, beside the Job Corps facility, Barceloneta, 787/791-1004 or 787/878-7279, office: Mon.-Fri. 8am-4:30pm, park: Sat.-Sun. 9am-5pm), a small wooded recreation area where trails meander through a 1,000-acre subtropical forest reserve distinguished by its dramatic hilly karst formations. There are also four miles of hiking trails, a wheelchair-accessible trail, and camping for up to 40 people. Call to obtain permits (787/724-3724, camp $4, cycle $1) to camp or cycle. Unfortunately, there’s no bike-rental outfitter, so bring your own gear.
Puerto Rico Premium Outlets (1 Premium Outlets Blvd., Barceloneta, 787/846-5300, Mon.-Sat. 9am-9pm, Sun. 9am-7pm) boasts 90 stores offering discounts of 25-65 percent off designer labels, including Ann Taylor Factory Store, Calvin Klein, Izod, Kenneth Cole, Michael Kors, and Nautica. There are also restaurants and fast food outlets, including Panda Express, Subway, Taco Maker, and Wetzel’s Pretzel.
Hyatt Place Manatí (corner of Carr. 2 and Carr. 149, Manatí, 787/854-1000, $161-171 s, $171-181 d, $211 one-bedroom suite plus fees and tax, includes breakfast) is an extended-stay hotel catering to business and medical tourism clients. Amenities include free wireless Internet, 24-hour fitness center, swimming pool, and fee-based shuttle service within a five-mile radius.
Salt and Pepper (Marginal 8, Manatí, 787/854-4422, Mon.-Fri. 11am-10pm, Sat. noon-10pm, Sun. noon-8pm, $15-28) is a simple, casual spot serving contemporary Puerto Rican cuisine including excellent red beans and rice, churrasco, and stuffed mofongo. The sangria comes highly recommended. This place is popular; expect a wait on weekends.
Grilled steaks are the specialty, but it’s not the only thing on the menu at Su Casa Steakhouse (Carr. 670, km 1.0, at Carr. 668, Manatí, 787/884-0047, Mon. 10am-3pm, Tues.-Thurs. 10am-10pm, Fri. 10am-midnight, Sat. 11am-midnight, Sun. 11am-10pm, $12-28). You can also get grilled pork chops in mango salsa and churrasco in mushroom sauce, among other hearty dishes.
Excerpted from the Fourth Edition of Moon Puerto Rico.
