If you turn up Rr Murat Toptani, behind the National Art Gallery, you'll pass the 6m-high walls of the Fortress of Justinian, the last remnants of a Byzantine-era castle. These days half a cinema/nightclub overflows over the top. East from here, on the corner of Rr Presidenti George W Bush and the Lana River, is Tanners' Bridge , a small 19th-century slippery-when-wet stone bridge.