Before setting off for the wine country, follow the path (three minutes’ walk) on the right of the Rathaus up to the mausoleum of Ruprecht von Eggenberg (1546–1611), hero of the Battle of Sisak against the Turks. Towering above Hauptplatz, this white and yellow building is guarded by two Roman-like bruisers who seem to be suggesting you don’t mess with the baroque.