The typically austere exterior doesn’t give much away, but Victor Horta’s former home (designed and built 1898–1901) is an art-nouveau jewel. The stairwell is the structural triumph of the house: follow the playful knots and curlicues of the banister, which become more exuberant as you ascend, ending at a tangle of swirls and glass lamps at the skylight, glazed with citrus-coloured and plain glass.
Floor mosaics, glittering stained glass and ceramic-brick walls reflect the light in the superbly harmonious dining room, rich with swirling American-ash furniture, glowing brass and a pink-and-orange colour scheme. Horta’s daughter’s room has a pretty winter garden, while you can only envy people who were invited to stay in the guest bedroom at the top of the house: the swirly brass door handle is a pleasure in itself.