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Hotel Neretva Ruins
With the arrival of the railway, the Austo-Hungarians made a conscious decision to shift the heart of Mostar to the Trg Musala area. No building was more symbolic of this move than the splendid 1892 Hotel Neretva with its layered yellow-and-red stonework and neo-Moorish design. Sad
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Una National Park
The centrepiece of the Una National Park is the glorious Štrbački Buk, western BiHs finest set of waterfalls. The easiest access is 8km along a good, largely flat unpaved lane from Orašac on the Kulen Vakuf road via National Park Gate 3. In dry conditions you could alternatively s
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Arslanagić Bridge
Trebinjes Arslanagić Bridge is a unique double-backed structure built in 1574 under the direction of Grand Visier Mehmet Paša Sokolović, who was also behind the Višegrad bridge, though this one was named for the toll collector. It was originally 10km upstream from its present locat
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Captains Tower
Before Bihać was more than a lonely fortress, this square-plan shingle-roofed castle tower is said to have offered refuge to the Hungarian King Bela IV who was so grateful that he gave Bihać a free-city charter in 1260. Since then it has been used as a prison and museum but now the
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Waterfalls
Jajces impressive 21m-high waterfalls mark the confluence of the Pliva and Vrbas Rivers. There are good views from the park as you desend into town from the bus station but for the classic tourist-brochure photo, cross the big Vrbas bridge and turn left on the Banja Luka road. Walk
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Hercegovina Museum
The most prominent building in Trebinjes walled Old Town is a four-storey 19th-century former Austro-Hungarian barracks, which now houses the Hercegovina Museum. The museums layout seems a little haphazard, with sarcophagus fragments and Roman busts dotted about two piano-rooms ami
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Haji Alibey Mosque
Paired photogenically with the Sahat Kula (stone clock tower) towards the bus station end of Travniks main street, this two-storey mosques most immediately distinctive features are the green wooden filigree on its frontage, faded paintwork on the door arch, a metal tipped minaret a
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Ostrožac Fortress
Ostrožac is one of BiHs most photogenic castles, a spooky Gothic place high above the Una Valley and accessed from the Cazin road, 4km of hairpins above the Una. The central garden has been a sculpture garden since 1969 but the interior of the buildings remains in a pretty ruinous
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Inat Ćuprija
The name of this cute little humped back bridge translates as something close to spite or bloody-minded, leading to wildly varying local legends. One version has it that the bridges builder had fallen out with his funder and deliberately constructed it with uneven arches as a mild
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Izetbegović Museum
Located in two 1730s stone towers linked by a section of former city wall, this two-room museum explores the background to the 1990s conflict and the role played by BiHs first president, Alija Izetbegović, in saving the country. Casual tourist visitors might find the museums dense
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Franz Ferdinands Assassination Spot
On 28 June 1914, Archduke Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Habsburg throne of Austro-Hungary, was shot by 18-year-old Gavrilo Princip. This assassination, which would ultimately be the fuse that detonated WWI, happened by an odd series of coincidences on a street corner outside what is
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Kastel Banja Luka
Down by the gently attractive riverbank in the very heart of Banja Luka youll find the chunky walls of a large, squat 16th-century fortress. The almost-flat layout means that the complex lacks the drama of many other smaller Bosnian castles and the walls enclose mainly unattractive
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Kajtaz House
Hidden behind tall walls, Mostars most historic old house was once the harem section of a larger homestead built for a 16th-century Turkish judge. Full of original artefacts, it still belongs to descendents of the original family. The roof was lost in wartime bombardments but other
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Yellow Bastion
Part-way between upper Vratnik and Kovaći Cemetery, a simple summer cafe places chairs between the trees on this overgrown former citadel bastion. Gaze out from here across the red-roofed cityscape. The horizon encompasses the Twin Towers, Avaz Twist Tower and on the far hilltop th
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Kuršumlija Madrasa
Distinctive for its row of chimneys and named for its lead roofing, this fine 1537 building was built as a religious school but now hosts a small exhibition about the colourful life and numerous creative works of Ottoman Governor Gazi-Husrevbeg. Theres little in the way of artefact
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Avaz Twist Tower
The Balkans Tallest Tower, this 2008 skyscraper in sleek blue glass has, as the name suggests, a gently twisted design. That probably isnt attraction enough for you to make a special journey to admire it, but should you be waiting for a train, its worth the walk – just three minute
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Catholic Cathedral
Fronted with twin-spired clock towers and rose window above the relatively plain stone portal, the neo-Gothic 1889 Catholic Cathedral has a contrastingly colourful interior and three fine stained-glass windows above the finely carved altarpiece. A 2014 statue of Pope John Paul II o
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Ars Aevi
This valuable if patchy international collection of contemporary art is displayed temporarily within the lumpsome Skenderija Centar. The works were collected as donations for Bosnia after the 1990s conflict but remained unexhibited for almost two decades. The first attempt at displ
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Boluni Stećci
Less known then Radimlja but arguably more atmospheric is a collection of over 270 stećci in two groups under old oak trees at Boluni, 18km from Stolac. Highlights include the cross-shaped tombstone of warrior-hero Vladko Vuković. Boluni is rather a long way to go as a special trip
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Stari Grad
Travniks castle surveys the city from a shoulder of hillside above Plava Voda. The stone walls seem so bright in sunshine it looks like theyve been scrubbed and the central multisided keep has been restored, housing a modest museum of local history and costumes. The surrounding cur
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