Preobrazhenski Monastir, originally dating from 1360, is located high in a forest 7km north of Veliko Târnovo. Bulgaria’s fourth-largest monastery, it offers fantastic views. Despite being destroyed by the Turks in the late 14th century, it was rebuilt in 1825, about 500m from the original site, but was later damaged by landslides. On both sides of the main church, note the massive rocks: they tumbled down the hill and miraculously just missed the building.
The monastery’s churches boast murals painted between 1849 and 1851 by the renowned Zahari Zograf. While the best inhabit Veliko Târnovo’s Archaeological Museum, a restoration program has brightened up the remaining age-blackened frescoes, making a visit here very worthwhile. You may also see (and hear!) the enormous barrels of fermenting plum brandy in the courtyard being made by the rascally monks.
Bus 10 from Veliko Târnovo passes the monastery. It will leave you at a turn-off on the road headed to Ruse. From here, it’s a shady, uphill 3km walk. A taxi from Veliko Târnovo costs about 8 lv one way.
