Within the Rila Monastery’s walls, four levels of colourful balconies – with monastic cells, storerooms, refectory and kitchen – surround the large courtyard and its magnificent Church of Rozhdestvo Bogorodichno, Bulgaria’s grandest monastery church. Built between 1834 and 1837, the structure is crowned by three domes. Its outside walls are covered with frescos both vivid and harrowing (or humorous, depending on your disposition): demons with whips, chains and pitchforks torture damned sinners in various states of woe and undress. The happier paintings depict the virtuous, accompanied by angels and saints. Some are autographed by Zahari Zograf, most eminent of Rila's painters. The gilded, intricately carved wooden iconostasis was created by master artisans from Samokov and Bansko.
Note the need for proper attire. Long shorts are fine, but more revealing dress is forbidden. Luckily, a few sporting green tunics lie at the ready.
