The small town of Perušić, 12km north of Gospić, is notable for its pretty onion-domed church and its perfect chess-piece Turkish castle. However, the main attraction is this extraordinary cave complex on the edge of town.
The largest cave, Samograd , has four beautiful chambers – the biggest of which is large enough to host a concert every Easter Monday. Tours depart on the hour, descending 480 handmade stairs into the depths (not suitable for small children). Wear warm clothes and sensible footwear.