The Hungarian Parliament Building on the bank of the Danube. Photo © Martin Dimitrov/123rf.
Ten days is enough time to take in all the major sights both cities have to offer, but it does mean sticking to a tight schedule and forgoing a few museums. Be prepared to do a lot of walking, and get your camera ready—you’re about to experience a few Kodak moments.
Prague (with highlights)
Fly into Prague’s Václav Havel Airport and head for your hotel. Staying in Nové Město (Old Town) means being within spitting distance of a wide array of shops, restaurants, sights, and nighttime action. Conversely, if it’s a more peaceful, picturesque environment you’re looking for, Malá Strana (Lesser Town) is hard to beat.Start your first full day at the top of Nové Město on the National Museum’s steps, where you can see the length of bustling Wenceslas Square stretching out before you. If natural history isn’t your thing, forgo the museum and make your way slowly down the square. There are countless shopping possibilities on either side of the boulevard as well as numerous cafés and restaurants that are perfect for people watching. When you’re ready to move on again, continue down to the bottom of the square, otherwise known as Můstek. On the right is Na Příkopě Street, which is filled with even more shops, cafés, and restaurants as well as casinos and museums. Those interested in learning more about the Czech Republic’s Communist past should definitely pay a visit to the highly informative Museum of Communism. Farther along Na Příkopě Street, you’ll come upon the Powder Tower and art nouveau masterpiece the Municipal House.
Staroměstské Náměstí (Old Town Square)
Have lunch, then head for Old Town Square, taking time to admire the gorgeous facades and wide array of beautiful buildings like the Church of Our Lady Before Týn and Church of St. Nicholas. Drink in Old Town Hall and the Astronomical Clock, and make sure to catch the wooden marionette show, The Walk of the Apostles, performed at the top of every hour. From there, take a stroll down chic Pařížská Street with its trendy boutiques and designer cafés. Stop for coffee then continue on to Josefov, Prague’s famed Jewish quarter and home of the magnificent Spanish Synagogue and haunting Old Jewish Cemetery. Lose yourself among the winding picturesque streets, then settle in for an evening of traditional food and drink, or head back to Nové Město for a more cultured evening, taking in a classical concert or opera at the Municipal House, National Theater, or State Opera House.Start your day bright and early by heading to Prague Castle, the city’s most popular and recognizable landmark. Admire the view of Prague down below before wandering through the courtyards and entering jaw-dropping St. Vitus Cathedral. Bask in the glory of its massive nave, stained glass windows, and ornate frescoes, then follow the crowds to tiny Golden Lane, onetime home of the incomparable Franz Kafka.
Backtrack to the castle’s front gates and ease on down Nerudova Street, peeking into its plethora of souvenir shops before arriving at legendary Malostranska Square. Enjoy a traditional Czech lunch, then burn those calories off with an enjoyable walk through Lesser Town’s romantic cobblestone streets. You’ll find no shortage of art galleries, cafés, and glass shops, but make sure to leave time for a visit to Kampa Island. Rest on one of its park benches, and when you’ve had enough of the remarkable view of Old Town and the lazy Vltava River, head for the Charles Bridge and see for yourself why it’s widely considered one of Prague’s most memorable structures. Take your pick from any one of the district’s many fantastic restaurants, and cap it off with a live show or drinks. Don’t go too wild, however. You’re traveling tomorrow.
Brno
Hit the road early and head for Brno, your halfway point between Prague and Budapest. Once there, get yourself settled and head for Old Town for a tasty Moravian lunch. Take a stroll through Freedom Square and check out the shops on Masarykova Street for any friendly deals. Take in Old Town Hall and the Cabbage Market then head on up to Špilberk Castle for a taste of history and the finest views in town. Brush up on your history at the Brno City Museum, including the grislier side of the times at the castle’s Casemates. Finish off your whirlwind tour with a visit to St. Peter and Paul’s Cathedral and the Capuchin Crypt then consult this guide’s listings for a memorable dinner and fun night out. Exercise discipline once again, however, as tomorrow’s another travel day.
Budapest
Today is another travel day, so pack your bags and head for the airport, bus station, car rental office, or train station. Upon arriving in Budapest, settle into your hotel, freshen up, and hit the Belváros. Vörösmarty Square is the city’s social hub and the site of the world-famous Café Gerbeaud. Don’t miss the opportunity to grab a delicious cup of coffee and scrumptious dessert before heading on to Váci Street, the country’s best-known pedestrian shopping district. At the end of the street is the cavernous Central Market Hall, which, if still open by the time you reach it, will overwhelm you with countless stalls selling everything from wine and paprika to traditional clothing and gifts. If you still have some energy left, take a romantic walk down Budapest’s famed Danube Embankment, home to cozy outdoor restaurants and cafés as well as gorgeous views of Buda Castle and Gellért Hill.Begin at the Royal Palace of Buda, and if time or interest allows, spend a couple of hours admiring the artwork in the massive Hungarian National Gallery. A hop, skip, and a jump will take you to Szentháromság Square and monumental Matthias Church, as well as kitschy yet playful Fishermen’s Bastion. Grab some lunch, and when you’re done admiring the maze of streets and royal views, head on back down the hill and over the striking Chain Bridge.
Spend the afternoon exploring grand boulevard Andrássy Avenue, whose numerous shops are bound to keep you occupied for some time. You’ll soon come upon the grand Opera House, a tour of which is highly recommended whether you’re a fan of opera or not. A little farther on is Nagymező Street, Budapest’s Broadway, the site of charming outdoor cafés, popular theaters, and the city’s very own Moulin Rouge club. Just down from that is Franz Liszt Square, a bustling collection of outdoor restaurants, bars, and cafés—the perfect place to enjoy an excellent meal, fine wine, and a well-deserved evening of fun.
Terézváros
Kick things off bright and early with gigantic Heroes Square. It’s flanked on either side by the Palace of Art and Museum of Fine Arts, both of which are perfect for fans of culture and high art. Nearby is eclectic Vajdahunyad Castle and its collection of Gothic, Renaissance, and baroque buildings. If you have the time, soothe your aches and pains in one of Europe’s largest spa complexes, the Széchenyi Spa Baths. If traveling with kids, visit family fave Vidám Park, full of Old World charm and home to a 100-year-old merry-go-round. Have some lunch on or around Andrássy út as you head back toward the center and over to St. Stephen’s Basilica, Hungary’s largest church. Enjoy a cup of coffee or light snack at one of the cafés bordering the square, then continue on past peaceful Liberty Square to Kossuth Lajos Square and the remarkable Parliament building, a tour of which is highly recommended. As evening descends, treat yourself to a tasty Hungarian dinner and some excellent domestic wine.Spend a peaceful and relaxing morning on beautiful Margaret Island, where lazy strolls among its gardens and ruins will reward you with an amusing Musical Fountain, the historic Dominican Convent, and open-air water complex Palatinus Strand. After lunch, head for the Buda Hills. Take a breathtaking ride up the hills via the Cog-Wheel Railroad and the Children’s Railroad, stopping to enjoy the serenity of Normafa before reaching Jánoshegy—Budapest’s highest point. Make your way back down slowly, savoring the natural surroundings before returning to the realities returning to Budapest, spoil yourself with a scrumptious meal and loads of last-minute fun. It is your last night in town, after all.
Have a hearty breakfast and squeeze in the impressive Dohány Street Synagogue, the largest functioning synagogue on the continent. Then it’s on the road again for the trip back to Prague. If you get to Prague at a reasonable hour, take a final stroll around the city’s magical streets and try to visit Charles Bridge one last time. You’ll be happy you did.
Head to Václav Havel Airport and start figuring out how soon you can conceivably come back.
Excerpted from the Third Edition of Moon Prague & Budapest.
