The sheer scale of the walls and moats surrounding the Main Fortress is impossible to fathom – mainly because the town is inside the fortifications. Initially, you may think the central square looks no different from other Czech old town centres. Wander past the walls en route to the Lesser Fortress, however, and a different picture emerges.
At the heart of the Main Fortress is the neat grid of streets that makes up the town of Terezín. There’s little to see except the 19th-century Church of the Resurrection, the former Commandant’s office, the neoclassical administrative buildings and the surrounding grid of houses with their awful secrets. South of the square are the remains of a railway siding, built by prisoners, on which carriage-loads of further prisoners arrived – and departed.
