A kilometre north of Kadriorg Park, Maarjamäe is a neo-Gothic limestone manor house built in 1874 for a Russian count. It’s now home to the Estonian Film Museum and a less-visited branch of the Estonian History Museum , detailing the twists and turns of the 20th century. Don't miss the Soviet sculpture graveyard at the rear of the building.
A particularly beautiful Socialist Realist mural entitled Friendship of Nations covers the walls of the banqueting hall, featuring triumphant factory workers, peasants, cosmonauts and an apparition of Lenin’s face among the red flags. When this was unveiled in 1987, it’s clear that nobody foresaw the dramatic events of the following few years.
When we last visited there were ambitious plans afoot to restore the palace and turn the complex into a 'experiential museum', including making use of the dismantled Soviet sculptures and hosting open-air concerts and film screenings. Watch this space.
