Once the studio of renowned sculptor Emil Wickström (1864–1942), Visavuori has a stunning situation on a ridge with water on both sides. It consists of three houses, the oldest of which was the home of Wickström, built in 1902 in Karelian and Finnish Romantic styles, and containing fantastic art nouveau furniture; it really brings the man to life and is worth visiting first. The beautiful studio next door, with dozens of models and sculptures, was built in 1903.
Pervasive smells of baking oblige stopping for a pulla (cardamom-flavoured bun) in the brick-vaulted cafe. Kari Paviljonki is dedicated to Kari Suomalainen, Emil Wickström’s grandson, whose long career as a political cartoonist spanned several decades. His cartoons are excellent; even more amusing is the 1959 award from the US National Cartoonist Society for ‘exposing the deceit of communism’.
Visavuori is 4km (signposted) off the motorway. Summer boats between Hämeenlinna and Tampere stop here.
