Dominating the city from its perch 120 vertical metres above the old town, the 17th-century Citadelle de Besancon – designed by Vauban for Louis XIV – commands sweeping views of the city and the serpentine River Doubs. Along with 11 other Vauban works, it was recognised as a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2008. The entry fee includes two audioguides, available in French, English and German. Two cafés serves edibles.
For an introduction to the citadel's architecture, head to Espace Vauban , where exhibits include a fascinating 3D film (14 minutes). Booklets in English and German are available at the entrance. The Chemin de Rond lets you walk along two sections of the citadel's outer ramparts.
The Musée de la Résistance et de la Déportation is one of France's most in-depth and comprehensive WWII museums. Each room is supposed to have an information sheet in English (look for a wall-mounted holder) but the 20 rooms of evocative photos, documents and artefacts are best visited with a free audioguide. Some of the photographs are unsuitable for young children. During WWII, the Germans imprisoned British civilians in the citadel, and German firing squads executed about 100 resistance fighters here. Nearby, the Musée Comtois presents local life in centuries past.
Kids are sure to be fascinated by the Insectarium , with creepy-crawlies such as tarantulas, scorpions and stick insects; the small Aquarium , where you can pet the koi; the ho-hum Noctarium , where a few of the Jura's nocturnal rodents snuffle around; and, at the southeast end, the zoo , home base for the free-range peacocks that strut their stuff around the fort.
If you don’t fancy the uphill trudge, take Ginkobus' bus 17 (€1.30) from the city centre or Parking Rodia, which runs one to five times an hour from April to mid-October.
