Anchored in France’s academic-military riding tradition, Saumur has been an equine centre since 1593. Its École Nationale d’Équitation is one of France’s foremost riding academies, responsible for training the country’s Olympic teams and members of the elite Cadre Noir. Advance reservations are required for its one-hour guided visits (enquire about English-language tours), and the semi-monthly Cadre Noir presentations (adult/child €16/9) are not to be missed: they are like astonishing horse ballets. Check the website for dates and reservations.
You’ll recognise members of the Cadre Noir by their special black jackets, caps, gold spurs and three golden wings on their whips. They train both the school’s instructors and horses (which take around 5½ years to achieve display standard) and are famous for their astonishing discipline and acrobatic manoeuvres (like ‘airs above ground’), which are all performed without stirrups.
Find the school 3km west of town, outside of sleepy St-Hilaire-St-Florent. It’s also the site of equestrian competitions.
