No address is more telling of the city’s extravagant cultural diversity than cours Julien, an elongated square with a fountain that has long dried up and palm trees, beneath which neighbourhood kids play football. Morning markets fill the pedestrian-only space with life – fresh flowers on Wednesday and Saturday, antique books alternate Saturdays, and stamps or antique books on Sunday. A line-up of terrace cafes cook up world cuisine and music venues sizzle with multicultural music.