The walled city feels too claustrophobic for you? At low tide, cross the beach to walk out via the Porte des Bés to the rocky islet of Île du Grand Bé, where the great St-Malo-born 18th-century writer Chateaubriand is buried. Once the tide rushes in, the causeway remains impassable for about six hours; check tide times with the tourist office.
About 100m beyond the Île du Grand Bé is the privately owned, Vauban-built 17th-century Fort du Petit Bé, also accessible at low tide only 13 days a month. The owner runs 30-minute guided tours in French; leaflets in English are available.