With its tall turrets and lofty location, Puilaurens is perhaps the most dramatic of the Cathar fortresses. It has the full range of medieval defences: double walls, four corner towers and crenellated battlements. The views from the castle are particularly grand, stretching across sun-baked plains and pine woodland. It’s also said to be haunted by the White Lady, a niece of Philippe le Bel. The castle is about 38km west of Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse, via the D117.