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Ernest Hemingways Apartment
At 74 rue du Cardinal Lemoine is the apartment where Ernest Hemingway (1899–1961) lived with his first wife Hadley from January 1922 until August 1923. Just below was Bal au Printemps, a popular bal musette (dancing club) that served as the model for the one where Jake Barnes meets
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Burghers of Calais
In front of Calais Flemish Renaissance-style town hall (1911–25) is Rodins famous statue Les Bourgeois de Calais (The Burghers of Calais; 1895), honouring six local citizens who, in 1347, held off the besieging English forces for more than eight months. Edward III was so impressed
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Parc de l’Orangerie
Across from the Council of Europes Palais de l’Europe, 2km northeast of Grande Île, this flowery park, designed in the 17th century by Le Nôtre of Versailles fame, is a family magnet with its playgrounds and swan-dotted lake. In summer you can rent row boats on Lac de l’Orangerie.
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Cité des Machines du Moyen Age
This is the place if you want to get a sense of what medieval warfare might have looked like. A collection of replica trebuchets, catapults and siege machines are arranged around the pretty town of Larressingle, sometimes known as ‘little Carcassonne’ because of its turrets and ram
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Chemin Touristique Limousin–Périgord
Clamber aboard carriages pulled by 1932 steam engine on the Chemin Touristique Limousin–Périgord to watch the Limousin’s fields and forests roll by. The trains run certain days and routes from Limoges and Eymoutiers, mid-July to mid-August. Reservations are essential; make them at
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Musée Départemental de Préhistoire de Solutré
About 10km west of Mâcon in the wine country, the Musée de Préhistoire de Solutré displays finds from one of Europe’s richest prehistoric sites, occupied from 35,000 to 10,000 BC. A lovely 20-minute walk will get you to the top of the rocky outcrop known as the Roche de Solutré, fr
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Palais de la Découverte
Attached to the Grand Palais, this children’s science museum has excellent temporary exhibits (eg moving lifelike dinosaurs) as well as a hands-on, interactive permanent collection focusing on astronomy, biology, physics and the like. Some of the older exhibits have French-only exp
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Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain
Designed by Jean Nouvel, this stunning glass-and-steel building is a work of art in itself. It hosts temporary exhibits on contemporary art (from the 1980s to today) in a diverse variety of media – from painting and photography to video and fashion, as well as performance art. Arti
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Basilique Collégiale Notre Dame
Built in Romanesque and Gothic styles from the 11th to 15th centuries this church was once affiliated with the monastery of Cluny. Its notable for its extra-large porch and the 15th-century tapestries that are displayed inside. Tapestries are accessible by a €3 guided tour late Apr
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Barrage de la Rance
This 750m bridge over the Rance estuary carries the D168 between St-Malo and Dinard, lopping a good 30km off the journey. A feat of hydroelectrics, the Usine Marémotrice de la Rance (below the bridge) generates electricity by harnessing the lower estuarys extraordinarily high tidal
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Atelier Cézanne
Cézanne’s last studio, 1.5km north of the tourist office on a hilltop, was painstakingly preserved (and recreated: not all the tools and still-life models strewn around the room were his) as it was at the time of this death. Though the studio is inspiring, none of his works hang th
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Assemblée Nationale
The lower house of the French parliament, known as the National Assembly, meets in the 18th-century Palais Bourbon, which fronts the Seine. Tours are available through local deputies, making citizens and residents the only eligible visitors. Next door is the Second Empire–style Min
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Tours de Notre Dame
The entrance to the Tours de Notre Dame , which can be climbed, is from the North Tower. The 400-odd spiralling steps to the top bring you face to face with many of the cathedral’s most frightening gargoyles, the 13-tonne bell Emmanuel (all the cathedral’s bells are named) in the S
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Escalier du Roi d’Aragon
This impressive staircase cuts down the southern cliff-face of Bonifacio. Legend says its 187 steep steps were carved in a single night by Aragonese troops during the siege of 1420, only for troops to be rebuffed by retaliating Bonifacio residents at the top. In reality the steps s
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Château d’Annecy
Rising dramatically above the old town, this 13th- to 16th-century castle was once home to the Counts of Geneva. The exhibits inside are diverse, ranging from medieval sculpture and Savoyard furniture to Alpine landscape painting and contemporary art, with a section on the natural
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Cap Fagnet
The highest point on the Côte d’Albâtre, Cap Fagnet (110m) towers over Fécamp from the north, offering fantastic views up and down coast. The site of a German blockhaus and radar station during WWII, today it’s topped by a chapel and five wind turbines (there’s a plan to erect 83 m
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Aître St
Decorated with lurid woodcarvings of skulls, crossbones, gravediggers’ tools and hourglasses (a reminder that your time, my friend, is running out), this macabre ensemble of half-timbered buildings was used for centuries as a cemetery for plague victims. Built between 1526 and 1533
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Saline Royale
Envisaged by its designer, Claude-Nicolas Ledoux, as the ‘ideal city’, the 18th-century Saline Royale in Arc-et-Senans, 35km southwest of Besançon, is a showpiece of early Industrial Age town planning. Although his urban dream was never fully realised, Ledoux’s semicircular Royal S
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Place d’Armes
A tree-shaded pétanque pitch dominates central place d’Armes. Music concerts fill Église Ste-Anne on its southern side in summer. Day in, day out, this hub of Porquerollais life buzzes with outdoor cafes and ice-cream stands and cyclists pedalling to and fro. Once the last of the d
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Hôtel de Ville
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