The imposing Moni Toplou, 18km east of Sitia, looks more like a fortress than a monastery – a necessity imposed by the dangers it faced at the time of its construction. It is one of the most historically significant and progressive monasteries in Crete. The middle of the 15th century was marked by piracy, banditry and constant rebellions. The monks defended themselves with all the means at their disposal, including a heavy gate, cannons (the name Toplou is Turkish for ‘with a cannon’) and small holes for pouring boiling oil onto the heads of their attackers. Nevertheless, it was sacked by pirates in 1498, looted by the Knights of Malta in 1530, pillaged by the Turks in 1646 and captured by the Turks in 1821.
Moni Toplou had always been active in the cause of Cretan independence. Under the Turkish occupation, a secret school operated in the monastery, and its reputation for hiding rebels led to severe reprisals. During WWII, Abbot Silingakis was executed after sheltering resistance leaders operating an underground radio transmitter.
The monastery’s star attraction is undoubtedly the icon Lord Thou Art Great by celebrated Cretan artist Ioannis Kornaros. Each of the 61 scenes painted on the icon is beautifully worked out and inspired by a phrase from the Orthodox prayer that begins, ‘Lord, thou art great’.
A museum tells the monastery’s history and has a collection of icons, engravings and books, as well as weapons and military souvenirs from the resistance.
The monastery is a 3km walk from the Sitia–Palekastro road. Buses can drop you off at the junction. A taxi from Sitia costs about €22.
