The Cyclades fulfil their collective name (kyklos – circle) by encircling the sacred island of Delos. The mythical birthplace of twins Apollo and Artemis, splendid Ancient Delos was a shrine-turned–sacred treasury and commercial centre. This Unesco World Heritage Site is one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece. Cast your imagination wide to transform this sprawling ruin into the magnificent city it once was.
While many significant finds from Delos are in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens, the site’s museum retains an interesting collection, including lions from the Terrace of the Lions (those on the terrace itself are plaster-cast replicas).
The island, just 5km long and 1300m wide, has no permanent population, so offers a soothing contrast to Mykonos (though in highest summer many visitors throng to the island). Overnight stays are forbidden and boat schedules allow a maximum of four hours at Delos. Bring water and food; wear a hat, sunscreen and walking shoes.
The ticket office sells detailed Delos guidebooks, and Mykonos bookshops sell some with reconstructions which are helpful for picturing the ruins as they were in their heyday.
The following is an outline of some significant archaeological remains on the site. For further details, a guidebook from the ticket office is advised, or take a guided tour.
Excursion boats dock on a bay south of the tranquil Sacred Harbour . The narrow spit dividing the two bays was man-made.
Pass the ruins of the South Stoa, built after the mid-3rd century BC with 28 Doric columns, and used to house shops and workshops, to reach the Sanctuary of Apollo , northeast of the harbour. The Sacred Way entered the complex through the Propylaia, to a compound of magnificent temples and treasuries. Three were dedicated to Apollo: Temple of the Delians , Temple of the Athenians and Poros Temple of Apollo. The Sanctuary also housed the Classical treasuries and the Artemision , a sanctuary of Artemis.
North of the Sanctuary is the much-photographed Terrace of the Lions . These proud marble beasts (originally thought to number 16) were offerings from the people of Naxos, presented to Delos in the 7th century BC to guard the sacred area. To the northeast, the Sacred Lake (drained since 1925 to prevent malarial mosquito-breeding) is where Leto gave birth to Apollo and Artemis.
The rock-encrusted Mt Kynthos (113m) rises elegantly to the southeast of the harbour. It's worth the steep climb, even in the heat. On clear days there are terrific views of the surrounding islands. It also has monuments such as the Sanctuaries of Zeus Kynthios and Athena Kynthia and the Temple of Hera .
The path to Mt Kynthos is reached by walking through the Theatre Quarter , where Delos' wealthiest inhabitants once built their houses. These houses surrounded peristyle courtyards, with colourful mosaics (a status symbol) being the most striking feature of each house.
The most lavish dwellings were the House of Dionysos , named after the mosaic depicting the wine god riding a panther, and the House of Cleopatra , where headless statues of the owners were found. The House of the Trident was one of the grandest. The House of the Masks has another mosaic of Dionysos resplendently astride a panther between two centaurs. The extraordinary mosaic at the House of the Dolphins incorporates lions, griffins and dolphins.
The theatre dates from 300 BC and had a large cistern , the remains of which can be seen. It supplied much of the town with water. The houses of the wealthy also had their own cisterns – essential as Delos was almost as parched and barren then as it is today.
Delos was a place of worship for many beyond the Greeks, and these temples are concentrated in the area called the Sanctuaries of the Foreign Gods . At the Shrine to the Samothracian Great Gods , people worshipped the Kabeiroi (twins Dardanos and Aeton). At the Sanctuary of the Syrian Gods there are remains of a theatre used for mystical rites (some say ritual orgies). The Shrine to the Egyptian Gods honoured deities including Serapis and Isis.
