In the leafy courtyard of the Church of Agia Paraskevi stands the Nekrotafion Inousson (Mausoleum of Inousses), where the island’s shipowning dynasties have endowed the tombs of their greats with huge chambers, marble sculptures and miniature churches. It’s a melancholy, moving place and speaks volumes about the worldly achievements and self-perception of the extraordinary natives of these tiny islands.
Perhaps more touching is the elegant Platia tis Naftosynis (Seamanship Sq) near the port, with nothing more than a proud statue, backed by a commemorative panel with the names of sailors who have died at sea, with room still for more.