Guided tours take you 270m below ground and through seven chambers with such fanciful names as Sanctuary of the Fairy and Zeus’ Palace. All teem with illuminated stalagmites and stalactites shaped into drapery, organ pipes, domes, curtains, waves and other strange formations. The cave is home to over 400 bats who may greet you if you visit in the morning.
Tours run roughly every 45 minutes and take about 40 minutes. A new 270m-long walkway makes it accessible to everyone.
Zoniana itself is modern and not particularly attractive. From Monday to Friday, two buses make the trip out from Rethymno (€5.50, one hour).