Around 36km north of Mytilini town, near Mantamados village, stands one of Lesvos’ most important pilgrimage sites. An axis of Orthodoxy, myth and militarism, the grand 17th-century Moni Taxiarhon is pretty full-on – note the fighter plane parked out front, reminding the faithful that the Archangel Michael is the patron saint of the Hellenic Air Force.
While at the monastery, visit the shop of the Agricultural Co-op of Mandamados , which sells numerous natural products from local farmers, such as the unique hard cheese, ladotyri, made from sheep’s milk.