Out on Lake Megali Prespa's promontory, friendly Macedonian-speaking villagers inhabit Psarades (population 144), while 1m-tall dwarf cattle meander in its surrounds. Fishers offer boat trips to Megali Prespa's isolated Byzantine askitiria (hermitages). These include the 13th-century Metamorfosi , where scant remnants survive of paintings and two sections from a wood-carved temblon (votive screen); the 15th-century Mikri Analipsi ; and the 14th-century old rock Church of Panagia Eleousa , tucked above a ravine and boasting beautiful frescoes.