Petaloudes, 7km up from the coast, is better known as the Valley of the Butterflies. Visit in June, July or August, when these colourful insects mature, and you’ll quickly see why. They’re actually tiger moths (Callimorpha quadripunctarea ) drawn to the gorge by the scent of the resin exuded by storax trees. In summer the whole place is choking with tour buses. Out of season, you’ll likely have the gorgeous forest path, streams and pools to yourself – but no butterflies.