Perched on the hillside, not far up from the harbour (signed to the right off the road to Pondamos beach), the Traditional House of Chalki – an alternative transliteration of Halki – is a two-storey family home, built a century ago. It’s now meticulously preserved as a museum, displaying authentic furniture, tableware and costumes, old photos – and even the owner’s grandmother’s underwear, neatly framed.