When pirates prowled the Dodecanese, the medieval settlement of Mikro Horio was Tilos’ main population centre. Its last inhabitants only left around 50 years ago and it now stands empty, 45 minutes’ walk up from Livadia. With its houses in various states of ruin – one opens as a music bar in summer – it’s a fascinating place to wander around. Linger until the light fades and it turns downright eerie.
