Crete’s most acclaimed 20th-century writer Nikos Kazantzakis (1883–1957) is buried south of the centre in the well-preserved Martinengo Bastion. The epitaph on his grave, ‘I hope for nothing, I fear nothing, I am free’, is taken from one of his works. To get there, pick up Moussourou at the south end of Odos 1821, follow it to the end and turn right on Plastira. The bastion will loom on your left.
